Vinyl Windows

Remove all dust and grit before lubricating pivot points, and all other moving metal parts with light machine oil. This should be done annually.

Light application of petroleum jelly or an equivalent will keep locking mechanisms and hinges in good working condition. A resin-free grease or lubricant should be used on sliding bars, gears, and faceplates. With sliders or single hung windows, a silicone spray (candle wax / furniture polish) can be used to lubricate the sashes to help them slide smoothly. With double hung windows, a few drops of light machine oil or spray such as WD-40, applied via the top end of the balance tube, will improve the operation of the balance.

Other maintenance tips for hardware & screens:

• Follow exterior surface cleaning instructions for all exterior screens.
• Interior mounted screens can be vacuumed with a soft brush attachment, or wiped with a soap water solution.
• The easiest way to clean screens are to remove them, and lay them on a flat surface.
• Apply cleaning solution to the screens and let them soak for a minute. Then, rinse the screens using a low-pressure spray. Alternatively, you can vacuum them with a soft brush.

We would like to stress that extra care should be taken not to overreach or risk falling!

To remove grime from old lubricant, airborne debris, remains of insect life, or other unwelcome materials, exposed parts of the open window should be wiped clean.

Drainage channels should be regularly and diligently cleaned to remain clear of blockages. Sash tracks should be kept dirt-free by using a small brush, and blowing the dust out of the tracks and corners.

Keep moving the sashes so that different areas can be cleaned. Use mild soap or detergent to clean all tracks and sash cavities. This will maintain smooth operation of the sash, preventing excessive wear on hinges, locks, rollers, and weather-stripping components.

Glass is a durable material in normal weather conditions, but it can suffer some surface deterioration.

One of the most aggressive elements in the atmosphere is water. An absorbed layer of water can wreak havoc on glass surfaces, dissolving or releasing certain elements that cause the water to become alkaline. With repeated wetting and drying – without washing – the dissolved matter will appear as a whitish scum. This reduces the brilliance of the surface, and in severe conditions, can obscure visibility. This latter condition is common where condensation regularly builds up. So, frequent cleaning is essential to flawless glass.

• Glass can be cleaned with warm soapy water, vinegar-based cleaners or any cleaning product specifically formulated for glass.
• Avoid using ammonia or alcohol-based cleaners, which can cause streaking. Take precaution not to damage glazing, frame finish, or insulating unit seals by overgenerous application of cleaners.
• Wipe the cleaning solutions on the glass in a circular motion, applying light to moderate pressure.
• If streaks appear, rinse the surface with clean water.
• Using a clean, lint-free cloth, wipe dry the interior glazing surfaces, including any interior frame or hardware components, to prevent spotting or water damage.

To clean grease, oil, tape adhesive, crayons or paint:

• Apply a small amount of acetone (mineral spirits) to a cloth or towel, and rub only the affected area.
• Repeat the cleaning steps listed above, if necessary.
• Glass should be cleaned starting at the top, and systematically working down. This technique reduces the possibility of residue and cleaning solution rundown.
• Caution: Do not clean glass or frames while they are exposed to direct sunlight! Detergents and soap-based cleaners may dry prematurely, and leave stubborn residue on the frame or glass surface.

As a general rule, all parts exposed when the window is closed should be washed down with warm soapy water (mild detergent), or a plastic cleaner.

Here are some other tips to keep those window frames tidy:

• Use a soft cloth, sponge or towel to avoid scratching.
• Rinse well with water.
• Over time, the exterior surface of window frames and doors may collect a layer of dirt, depending on environmental conditions. Rainfall will usually be sufficient to remove accumulated dirt.
• However, in places with smog, excess smoke, or dirt, the exterior surfaces should be cleaned regularly. A soft bristle brush or low-pressure spray cleaner are viable options.
• Avoid using high-powered washers, ammonia, abrasive cleaning agents, glass cleaners and tile cleaners – using these products over time will cause cracks.
• The pigments used in paint are almost identical to those used in vinyl. A little rubdown with Soft Scrub will bring your vinyl window back to its original brilliance.

Reduce the humidity and decrease the number of cool surfaces in your home.

Your first step is to find what the humidity level in your home is. This will need to be monitored regularly as the temperature outside varies.

Devices that measure humidity are called hygrometers. They can be purchased at most reliable hardware or home centre stores.
As a guide, the following chart should help:

Outside Temperature °F Inside Relative Humidity

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Yes. To limit condensation, humidity must be controlled and air movement must be generated.

As the exterior temperature drops, the humidity level needs to be decreased proportionally. Fortunately, window condensation can be controlled, once the cause is known.

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Condensation often forms at the meeting rail, and at the bottom of the lower sash on the interior of the glass. When warm air cools, it falls down across the interior surface of the window at the same time the air’s temperature is falling.

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No, condensation on windows is not the fault of the window.

However, by keeping windows closed or installing a new roof, you are reducing airflow in your home, making it more airtight. Tighter homes actually retain more humidity!

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There are several factors that create condensation on windows.

Normal breathing and perspiration add three pints of water to the air every day for each person in your home. In fact, every activity that uses water adds more moisture to the air, including cooking, taking showers, dish washing, and doing laundry.

If you have too much moisture in your home, be mindful of:

• Dripping faucets.
• Any containers in the home that have water standing often or all the time, such as sinks, pet bowls, and open fish tanks.
• Drying clothes indoors, or leaky clothes dryers.
• Gas cooking; moisture is a by-product of gas combustion.
• Open toilet lids.
• Exhaust fans that aren’t used during baths and showers to remove the moisture.
• Excessive use of things like steamers, plant misters, or teapots.
• Some building slabs may not have a vapor barrier.
• Overuse of humidifiers.
• Faulty plumbing, such as leaks in walls or under cabinets.
• Leaking hot water heaters or water piping.
• Outdoor drainage that holds water against slab or bricks. You may need to inspect your sprinkler system, too!
• Faulty shower piping, or faucets and seals leaking into walls.
• Leaky refrigerators or ice machines that drip or drain excess water or moisture.
• Poor ventilation in bathrooms.
• Air conditioning.
• Doors that are too tight, impeding circulation of air from the room.
• Extensive soaking of clothing in open water containers. You may wish to move these to the garage or utility areas.
• Wet clothing, washrags, or towels repeatedly left lying out.
• Rainwater leaking into the attic and/or walls.
• Use of open space gas heaters, especially at high room temperatures.
• Poor refrigeration or faulty condition of the cooling system that doesn’t remove enough moisture from the air. Have this checked by a technician.
• Floors left wet after mopping.

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To put it simply, yes.

It not only creates a nuisance by limiting visibility and wetting adjacent walls and floor surfaces, but in more severe cases, can cause wood rotting and paint / plaster deterioration.

This has always been problematic to builders, because the homeowner always assumes that the window construction or installation is faulty. What most homeowners don’t know is their own living habits are a part of the problem, or that a well-built house is often more vulnerable to excess moisture problems than one that is poorly constructed.

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Condensation usually appears on windows first, as they have the lowest temperature of any of the interior surfaces in the house.

This is commonly known as “window sweating”. It’s a rare sight on walls because they are typically warmer. In the most extreme cases, window sweating can lead to mildew and the growth of mould.

Excess humidity built in the form of a thin film of water on a cold surface is called condensation.

You may have noticed this on a humid, hot summer day, when condensation appears on cold glass. If the temperature changes, but no water vapor is added or taken away, the relative humidity will increase as the temperature falls. The relative humidity will continue to rise with falling temperature until the dew point is reached — that is, the temperature at which the relative humidity becomes 100 percent.

Any further decrease in temperature will force some of the vapor to condense as water (when the temperature is above freezing) or as frost (when the temperature is below freezing).

Condensation is the primary reason for window-related call-backs!

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Any operating window, either horizontal or vertical slider, will leak some air and water – this is called air and water infiltration.

Water infiltration is more evident. Windows are constructed with weep holes to allow any internal water to weep to the exterior of the home. So depending on weather conditions, it’s normal to see water in the sill section of windows.

Windows are thermal holes. An average home loses approximately 30 percent of its energy through them.

So it goes without saying energy-efficient windows save money. The additional amount spent for a solid, energy-efficient window will pay for itself in two to four years. Long-lasting windows cost less in the long run, while making your home more comfortable and cozy.

The heat loss of windows is measured using U-values or U-factors. U-values are the mathematical inverse of R-values: for example, an R-value of 2 equals a U-value of 1/2, or 0.5. Unlike R-values, lower U-value indicates higher insulating value.

Vinyl windows lose and gain heat by:

Conduction

Transmission of energy (heat and cold) through a solid material via direct contact. The lower the conductivity, the lower the heat loss and vice versa. Double-glazed windows filled with argon gas and warm edge spacers greatly reduce conduction.

Convection

In a cold climate, heated indoor air brushes against the interior surfaces of window glass, which causes air to cool, become dense, and drop downward. As the stream of air drops, warm air rushes in to take its place at the glass surface.

This cyclical movement of air forms a convective loop and is self-perpetuating. Double-glazed windows filled with argon gas and warm edge spacers raise inboard glass temperatures, thereby slowing down the convection cycle and improving comfort in your home.

Radiant transfer

This is the movement of heat from a warmer body to a cooler body.

Clear glass absorbs heat and redirects it outdoors. Radiant-heat loss through windows can be significantly reduced by opting for low-e glass that reflects specific wavelengths of energy. In a similar fashion, low-e coatings keep the summer heat out.

Air leakage

Air leakage through windows is responsible for most of a window’s heat loss. This is commonly referred to as air and water infiltration.

Well-designed windows have durable weather-stripping and high-quality closing devices that effectively prevent air and water leakage. Hinged windows such as casements and awnings clamp more tightly against weather stripping than double-hung windows.

How well the individual pieces of the window unit fit together also affects air leakage. Glass-to-frame, frame-to-frame, and sash-to-frame connections must be tight & consistent.

Low-e glass improves the insulating value of a window, roughly as much as adding an additional pane of glass.

Low-e glass combined with argon gas boosts energy efficiency by nearly 100% over clear glass. Like all gases, argon gas will leak from the window over time. However, it is non-toxic and safe. Studies suggest a 10 percent loss over the course of 20 years, but that will reduce the U-value of the window slightly.

The added cost for low-e glass and argon gas fillings is only about 10 percent of the window’s overall cost – it’s an easy decision!

The main advantages are:

• Reduced energy loss (heat and cold)
• Reduced harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays
• Improved environmental footprint

We often see condensation and frost on windows, usually around the edges of window glass. The edge is where the panes of the sealed units are held apart by spacer bars.

Condensation is the primary reason for window-related call-backs. Non-conductive warm edge spacers reduce heat transmission of heat, limiting condensation. The material the spacer is made from affects the rate that heat travels through a window’s edge. Warm edge spacers can improve the U-value of a window by 10 percent, and boost the edge temperature by around 5°F, reducing condensation.

Argon is an odourless, colourless, tasteless, invisible, non-toxic gas used to replace the air inside sealed window units to reduce thermal transfer.

It is six times heavier than air. Since argon gas is denser than air, and not in continuous motion like air, the transference of energy (heat and cold) is greatly reduced. In short, argon gas provides extra insulation!

Laminated glass is a combination of two or more glass sheets with one or more interlayers of plastic (PVB) or resin.

In case of accidental breakage, the interlayer holds the fragments together and continues to provide resistance to anything hitting the glass.

Laminated glass is also highly effective in reducing noise levels, and has the ability to block 99% of the sun’s harmful UV rays!

Tempered glass has a surface compression no less than 10,000 psi (pounds per square inch), or an edge compression no less than 9,700 psi.

This glass type is extremely durable, often used to reduce the risk of accidents or break-ins. Fully tempered glass, which comes standard with our patio doors, garden and French doors, is four to five times stronger than ordinary float glass. Should the glass break, it falls out of the frame and shatters into small, harmless, pebble-like pieces without sharp edges.

This is by design, and an example of a well-tempered product, not a defective one. This fail-safe characteristic of tempered glass makes it an excellent product for safety glazing applications.

Low-emissivity (low-e) coatings are microscopically thin, virtually invisible, metal or metallic oxide layers deposited on the glass surface to reduce U-factors from the sun.

Low-e glass for larger openings can reduce energy costs up to 25%!